On one of my trips to Thiruvananthapuram, my colleague Shri Sudheesh Thampi after the official duties and some temples already covered in Thiruvananthapuram city, suggested we drive down to some unique temples across the Kerala border. He was so sure that I would thank him later, and Boy! what a pilgrimage it turned out to be. It was peak monsoon in Kerala and non-stop rain added to the fervour (and flavour). First stop was, 3rd of the Shivalaya Sivalaya Ottam – Thirparappu Arulmigu Mahadevar Temple (Shri Jatadharan) in Kulashekaram town (compiling the research and will be my next article)

This Maxi-post is about the next one that we visited and that which left me awestruck and the spirtual hangover lasted for a few days after my return – Thiruvattaru Shri Adi Keshava Perumal Temple.

The Shri Adikesava Perumal Temple is a highly venerated Hindu shrine situated in Thiruvattar in the Kalkulam Taluk of the Kanyakumari district, Tamil Nadu. It holds the distinction of being one of the 108 Divya Desams dedicated to Bhagwan Vishnu.

The temple is uniquely situated, surrounded by three rivers: the Kothai (or Kotha), the Pahrali (or Parali), and the Thamirabarani. The name Thiruvattar is derived from the curved flow (vattaru) of the Paraliyar river around the temple, and the region was historically known as ‘Valaneer Vattaru’ by the poet Malkudi Kilar in the ancient anthology Purananuru. There is another school of thought on the origin of the name that says three rivers named earlier encircle this temples as recorded in Nammalvar’s 11 pasurams in praise of Adi Kesava Swamy in the 6th Thiruvai mozhi. By sheer luck and blessings we had the fortune of listening to these pasurams from Scholar from Srirangam Thiru Varadan Mama. We have recorded his entire talk in Tamizh, recorded by yours truly (Pardon the quality of recording).

Antiquity, Nomenclature, and Architectural Style

The temple is known by ancient names such as Adi Ananthapuram and Dakshina Vaikundam. It is also historically referred to as the ‘Srirangam of the Chera Kingdom’. While its exact founding date is uncertain, Tamil hymns suggest its antiquity dates back to the 7th or 8th centuries C.E., with some accounts placing the inner sanctum construction over 4,000 years ago.

AS can be seen in the above Photograph, the temple showcases a blend of Dravidian and authentic Kerala-style architecture, closely resembling the Shri Ananta Padmanabhaswamy Temple in Thiruvananthapuram. The Thiruvattar temple is considered older and is said to have served as the model for the Thiruvananthapuram temple. Significantly, the presiding deity of Adikesava is revered as the Elder Brother of Sri Ananta Padmanabha Swamy, and their idols are placed facing each other (Adi Kesava facing west and Padmanabhaswamy facing east).

The Deity and Architectural Features

The presiding deity, Bhagwan Vishnu in the form of Adi Kesava Perumal (also known as Adi Ananthapadmanbhan), is in the Yoga Nidra Postures – the Bhujaga Shayana (reclining posture) on Adi Sesha. The Moorti measures 22 feet in length and is made of Kadu Sarkara Yogam, a mixture of mustard, jaggery, and lime powder is bigger than Shri Anantha Padmanabha Swami. He is seen with his consort Ambal Maragathavalli Nachiar. A unique feature is that Bhagwan’s form must be viewed through three separate Dwarams (Openings). A Shiva linga is also situated near Bhagwan inside the garbha gudi (santucm sanctorum), and the unusually Deity’s feet point north while his head points south (speciality of this temple). This direction is in exact opposite direction of how Shri Ananta Padmanabha Swamy reclines. It is said that the latter lied in this direction to see his elder brother, Adi Keshava. The temple is surrounded by a thirty-feet-high fort wall.

Key architectural marvels include:

• Ottakkal Mandapam (Single-Stone Hall): A hall built from a single stone slab, approximately 18 feet wide and 3 feet thick/high, installed by King Veera Ravi Varma Kulasekhara in 1603 CE
• It is built in such a manner that the sun’s rays fall directly on the deity on the 3rd and 9th day of Puratasi and Panguni. During Painguni utsavam, Lord’s utsava-murti comes on a golden Garuda and have a dip in the river thus enacting the incident of purifying hitherto sinful rivers, Kothai and Parali.
• Nalambalam: The circumambulatory passage features 224 ornately carved granite pillars.
• Udaya Marthanda Mandapam: This hall in front of the sanctum is decorated with exquisite wooden carvings, notably depicting the marriage procession of Bhagwan Ganesha.
• Inscriptions: Close to 50 inscriptions in Tamil and Sanskrit (Vattezhuthu and Nagari) are found, including those related to Kulothunga Chola I and Chera royalty. One of the inscription also includes a mentions that temple was established in Treta Yuga.

Purana and Legends

Brahma performed a yajna without Maa Saraswati and as a result of Saraswati’s anger, brother sister sibling asuras Kesan and Kesi emerged out of agni of the Yagna. The devas approached Bhagwan Vishnu and pleaded with Him to free them from this torment. Bhagan Vishnu in the form of Adi Kesava fought with Kesan. Lord threw Kesan who fell on top of Mahendragiri and Bhagwan blew His Shankha (Conch). Adi Sesha, the serpent King wound himself around Kesan thus disabling the asura to move after which Bhagwan Vishnu laid himself on Adi Sesha thus putting His weight on the asura. When the asura tried to free himself from Adi Sesha’s coils, Bhagwan made 12 Siva-lingams to stand as guard all around the asura and Him. These Shivalingams are in Thirumala, Thikkurussi, Thrupparappu, Thirunandhikkara, Ponmana, Pannippakam, Kalkkulam, Melankodu, Thiruvidaikkodu, Thiruvithamkode, Thiruppanrikkode and Thirunattalam. After Kesan was defeated, Kesi and her friend Kothai took the form of rivers to encircle and submerge Bhagwan. Bhoomi Devi (Mother Earth) saved the deity by raising the temple terrain, which is why the shrine is situated at a height of about 55 feet from the ground level. Bhagwan Adi Kesava then purified the two rivers by taking a sacred dip. The sages Parashurama and Vashista are also said to have performed penance at this holy site.

A miraculous event occurred in the late 17th century when a Mughal Sardar’s forces invaded. The local Raja Kerala Varma prayed to Adi Kesava, singing the Paada Sankeerthanam. A swarm of wasps rushed out of the temple, attacking the army, and killing the Sardar, leading to a decisive victory for Kerala Varma.

Historical and Devotional Significance

The temple was once a part of the erstwhile kingdom of Travancore. The Travancore Royal Family held the temple in high esteem:

• Marthanda Varma (1729-1758 CE): The first ruler of Travancore, alongside his minister Ramayyan Dalawa, gave high importance to the temple. Before the Battle of Colachel (1741), the Maharaja prayed here, dedicating his sword to the deity.
• Thiru Allah Pooja: In 1740, the Nawab of Arcot’s forces looted the golden Utsava-murti. Upon the subsequent illness of the Nawab’s wife, a dream instructed the priest to return the idol. After its restoration and the wife’s recovery, the Nawab endowed an annual 21-day ritual called the Thiru Allah Pooja, which is performed even today. During the Seeveli (evening ceremonial procession of the deity, the abharanas donated by Nawab is used as alankara for the deity.
• Alwar saint Nammalwar: Glorified the temple through 11 pasurams in 6th Thiruvai mozhi.
• Maharishi Vedvyasa: mentions this temple and Adikeshava in Padma Purana written 2500 years ago
• Shri Chaitanya Mahaprabhu: the founder of the Gaudiya Vaishnava sect, visited in 1510 A.D. and discovered the 5th chapter of the Brahma-samhita within the temple premises, which he subsequently transcribed. In the temple there is a spot, the very place that Shri Chaitanya was seated for transcribing Brahma-samhita.

Rituals and Festivals

The temple’s rituals and practices follow the Kerala-style (Taantrika Vidhi). Many ceremonies are required to be performed here before they are conducted at the Shri Padmanabhaswamy Temple in Thirvananthapuram.

Major festivals, which often coincide with those in Thiruvananthapuram, include:

• Vaikunda Ekadasi (Swarga Vathil Ekadasi).
• The 12-day festival in the month of Thai (Perunthamirthu, Kalapa Poojai).
• The 10-day Painguni Utsavam, during which the processional idol is taken on a golden Garuda for a ritualistic bath in the river, re-enacting the forgiveness of the rivers.

Prasadam

Offerings at the temple include Paal Payasam (Milk Kheer), Aval, and Appam.

Dress Code:

Devotees must adhere to a strict dress code: men must wear a dhoti or pyjama with an upper cloth, or formal pants and shirts; women must wear a sari or a half sari or churidhar with an upper cloth.

Directions to Reach

https://maps.app.goo.gl/mrsU1NCMfP2Qh17m9

Contact
+91 9442577047

Some Pictures that we clicked wherever it was allowed: